DIY MAPLE HERRINGBONE DESK

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We moved into our home {Appaloosa} in August of 2020. My kids were starting at new school this year and because they would be home indefinitely due to the pandemic, and learning virtually, I created an awesomely fun classroom for them. I knew it was going to be an adjustment for them being home all day everyday, so I sought out to create a space that was fun, bright, colorful. I wanted it to be a place they WANTED to be.

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I should have expected that my design, be it amazing, wasn’t perfectly executed because it put both of my kids in the same room learning fairly close to one another. After a while, it proved to be too much of a distraction for my son. This led to him distracting his sister and thus the spiral began. He offered so much distraction that he got booted from and banished to learn elsewhere. ✌🏼 Sadly, removing him from the dedicated classroom meant putting him in the living area in our basement.

As many of us found out the hard way at the beginning of the school year, desks were, and still are, insanely hard to come by given so many kids have been forced to learn remotely from home. I couldn’t find anything that I liked well enough to wait months for to receive or pay good money for. My son was stuck sitting at a card table and I hated that thought.

I decided I was going to solve my own problem and build a desk. But, that led to a different kind of problem: I had never built anything out of wood before.

I’ve always been drawn to a herringbone pattern because it’s so classic and timeless. That’s right up my alley! Plus I thought it would look amazing for a desktop and worth the challenge in building.

When I told my husband I was:

1. Going to build a desk and 2. Make it into a herringbone pattern

He looked at me a bit perplexed. You know ladies. It’s “that” look. The one when your husband gives you when he thinks your bright idea may end up becoming a project for him. Then, without fail, came the gentle suggestion that I was waiting for. “Honey, maybe I should consider something a bit easier for my first project.”

{Insert eye roll}.

Absolutely not. I knew what I wanted and that was that. #micdrop


Let’s Do This!

I got my game plan together with my design and determined what materials and tools I would need.

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TOOLS

  • Compound Mitre Saw

  • Nail Gun

  • Electric Sander

  • Drill

  • Measuring Tape

  • Speed Square

SUPPLIES

  • 24” x 48” Birch Plywood (12mm base)

  • 46 Ft of 1 x 3 Maple Boards (desktop)

  • 13 Ft of 1 x 2 Maple Boards (trim)

  • Gorilla Glue Wood Glue

  • 1” Brad Nails

  • Wood Filler

  • 120 and 320 Grit Sand Paper

  • 1000+ Grit Sand Paper

  • Varathane Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

  • Varathane Classic Wood Stain (Espresso & Classic Black)

  • Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane Clear Gloss (Oil Based)

  • 2” Wood Conditioner Brush

  • Lint-Free Rags ( for stain application)

  • 2” Angle Oil Paint Brush (for polyurethane application)

  • Qty 4 - 28” Hairpin Legs

  • 1” - PowerPro Multi-Material Screws (comes with drill bit)

Align and clamp each 1x3.  I marked the cut line by using the underlayment as my guide on the underside of each 1x3 and cut the 45° angle on the mitre saw.  After making my cut, I used Gorilla Glue Wood Glue and aligned my 1x3.  I clamped it and sec…

Align and clamp each 1x3. I marked the cut line by using the underlayment as my guide on the underside of each 1x3 and cut the 45° angle on the mitre saw.

After making my cut, I used Gorilla Glue Wood Glue and aligned my 1x3. I clamped it and secured it with 1” brad nails with my nail gun. {Footnote: If I were to make this design again, I would run the boards long, letting them overhang on the sides. Then, I would use a skill saw and guide rail to cut the sides in a single, clean cut.}

Apply wood glue to each 1x3.

Apply wood glue to each 1x3.

Align each 1x3 with a spare 1x3 to ensure it is flush with the pattern.  Clamp the 1x3 to hold in place.

Align each 1x3 with a spare 1x3 to ensure it is flush with the pattern. Clamp the 1x3 to hold in place.

Set the 1x3 in place.

Set the 1x3 in place.

Using the nail gun and brad nails, place a nail in the center and far edge of the 1x3.

Using the nail gun and brad nails, place a nail in the center and far edge of the 1x3.

After filling holes and gaps with wood filler, I sanded the wood but continued to see what looked like oil stains leftover from the filler.  A word of advice, keep sanding!!  Keep sanding until it’s ALLLLL gone.  If you fail to remove the reside or …

After filling holes and gaps with wood filler, I sanded the wood but continued to see what looked like oil stains leftover from the filler. A word of advice, keep sanding!! Keep sanding until it’s ALLLLL gone. If you fail to remove the reside or any visible discoloration, the stain will not be able penetrate the wood in those areas. The end result will be splotchy wood.

Ain’t nobody got time for that!

After sanding is complete and the wood is clean and free from dust, apply wood conditioner to ensure an even stain throughout the piece.

After sanding is complete and the wood is clean and free from dust, apply wood conditioner to ensure an even stain throughout the piece.

I applied 3 coats of stain to achieve the my desired coloring for the desktop.

I applied 3 coats of stain to achieve the my desired coloring for the desktop.

You may see tiny air bubbles in the clear coat after it has dried.  If so, not to fret, my friend!  Grab the sand paper!

You may see tiny air bubbles in the clear coat after it has dried. If so, not to fret, my friend! Grab the sand paper!

After applying conditioner, follow directions for recommended drying time.  After drying, apply your desired wood stain color to the wood.

After applying conditioner, follow directions for recommended drying time. After drying, apply your desired wood stain color to the wood.

Ensure the wood is dust-free. Begin to apply the polyurethane coats. This desktop has 3 coats.

Ensure the wood is dust-free. Begin to apply the polyurethane coats. This desktop has 3 coats.

I recommend using a 1000+ grit sand paper in between coats to ensure the smoothest finish.  This will take care of those bubbles or dust.

I recommend using a 1000+ grit sand paper in between coats to ensure the smoothest finish. This will take care of those bubbles or dust.

I let the polyurethane fully cure for 3 days before attaching the hairpin legs.  Begin patient in this step is incredibly difficult but it’s worth the wait. A knick in half-dried clear coat is THE WORST.

I let the polyurethane fully cure for 3 days before attaching the hairpin legs. Begin patient in this step is incredibly difficult but it’s worth the wait. A knick in half-dried clear coat is THE WORST.

I like to pre-drill my holes to ensure they sink straight, but it’s not necessary with ProwerPro Wood Screws.  They even come with their very own drill bit which prevents stripping at the head.

I like to pre-drill my holes to ensure they sink straight, but it’s not necessary with ProwerPro Wood Screws. They even come with their very own drill bit which prevents stripping at the head.

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A labor of love. ❤️

The desk turned out better than I could have imagined. This was my first time ever building anything! Turns out I built a lot more than just a desk.

I built a special kind of bond between me and my son that will last a lifetime. I built my self confidence by pushing through, finding a way for myself to do something I had no idea how to do. I built a small bit of space to foster the learning and education of my 1st grader.

Metaphorically, this desk built a window to a clearer picture of what has really been going on around me the last twelve months. 2020 has taken its toll on so many families and ours is no exception. I’m connecting my need to build something strong and sturdy as a way of compensating for what feels like everything crumbling around us.

The process of learning how to build this desk allowed me the time and space to open my eyes to what matters most in my life.

It’s too early to know, but I think I may have built the steps that lead to an open road ahead.

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